Topic: Official Nylint modifying thread (Read 11086 times)

Ghost · « **on:** December 30, 2006, 07:51:21 PM »

Well due to the increasing ammount of people buying theses little gems andbecause they are so easy to mod ive decided to make a tread dedicated to modding them

There come very good stock but there easyilt modified.

RC rock crawling has a whole section devoted to 1/6th (not avalible over here) and th 1/18th jobbies.

Ghost · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2006, 07:59:23 PM »

Spring Clipping

This is suck a easy to mod to do and it helps the articulation of the jeep and increases trave by amount cm or there abouts.
1) Remove the shell by undoing the 4 screws underneith the Chassis
2) Remove the shocks by undoing the top and bootom screws
3) Clip 3-4 coils off each shock using needle nose plyers.
4) return all the parts back into place and enjoy.

Flipping, Removing and softening tyres

Putting the tyres on the other side of the truck reverses the threads and give more gip
To get the tyres off
1) Turn and pull the centre hub off with needle nose plyers and you will see a screw on the front tyres and a small bolt on the rear. The small bolt is the same size a tamiya wrench.

To soften tyres up you can boil them which will make them soft for around 20-30 minutes, you can shave the treads the make the tyres softer, other methods inlcude soaking them in petrol and diesel for a night or 2, this is untested be the first to try it out. Of you can cut on of the inner flaps, this greatly inproves the tyres 'squashablitlytobjectsines'

hope these helps, feel free to ask questions or add to this thread

josh_smaxx · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2006, 02:14:23 PM »

found a way to put standard size monster truck wheels over the normal wheels and tires with around 8 normal cable ties(standard maxx wheels are he best):

1) make string of 5 small cable ties that you can attach together to make a loop later.

2) pull this string anround the back of the standard wheels.

3) push the truck wheels over the nylints wheels ensuring the cable ties go inside the truck wheel.

4) pull the cable ties through the truck spokes with plyers, and pull tight so it is atached.

5) use more cable ties to secure the truck wheel does not come away at one side.

i have tested this only briefly and makes an imense climbing difference, if there are any faults with this or if you have a better idea on ow to attach the wheels im up for any suggestion because this is just the prototype, pics of my truck should follow.

Ghost · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2006, 03:27:41 PM »

sounds good, i would try if i has maxx tyres

josh_smaxx · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2006, 06:23:16 PM »

UPDATE: for the add-on maxx tires the motors really need more torque as the wheels increase the gearing by massive amounts but with the maxx tires not having any inner-foams they squash up amazingly

Laughing Potato · « **Reply #5 on:** January 01, 2007, 10:37:47 PM »

STEERING MOD

Those that own a Nylint 1/18yh will know that the steering is controlled via a small motor which stalls out when at full lock. Steering is very much on/off and the motor is weak, so steering with muddy wheels is naff.

So the only way to get round this is to add proper hobby grade radio gear and steering servo.

This guide will hopefully start some of you on the modding road with the Nylint. I have not done it bit by bit as it is on going and will be changed as I go along, but I will post stuff that works and some of the failures along the way.

I wanted to do it in such a way that it will be easy for others to follow. I have used bits that are easy to find around the home/shed.

You will need a Dremel type tool to cut and file unwanted plastic areas.

First remove the whole front axle and the electronics from within the truck. Cut wires from the mainboard as this will be discarded. Remove the steering motor from the front axle and the dremel the unwanted plastic parts to form a flat smoot surface to attach the plastic you will mount the servo on.

Carefully measure up this area and find the parts you will need prior to starting. I used the servo saver from a Tamiya TL01 and the turnbuckles where just sitting around as spares. The servo is taped to a plastic 'L' shaped bracket which is then taped to a peice of white plastic. This is then screwed into the front axle. If you are careful what you Dremel away, one screw will be enough as it is all self supporting

The first image shows the first attempt, but it was a little flimsy $:-\$

I then set to work on strenghening it up and used black tape. This hasn't yet been fitted to the truck, but has bench tested very nicely indeed. Notice how level the turnbuckles are, this helps efficency and looks better

I hope to get the rest of the electrics rigged up tomorrow.

Notice I've also removed the hi/low gearing switch, it would only get snagged up if I kept it.

Hope this helps someone get going

jimbob · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2007, 10:45:43 PM »

real nice job there LP

i will have to get onto that

josh_smaxx · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2007, 11:42:13 AM »

great job, would love 2 do it but i dont have a dremem $:-\$ and being only 14 my parents rule most of what i do and getting the electrics would mean taking my Tamiya touring car apart so unfortunately its all out of the question

Sammy · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2007, 03:23:04 PM »

Hi Guys.
Got mine this morning.
Not got hobby gear in yet due to not having a spare ESC around, so it's stock gear for the mo.
I've made two discoveries:
1) If you take the steering motor cover off (not the gearboxy bit, the top bit) and replace it with some chunks of blu-tack as per my first picture, you can get some more articulation due to the added thickness of the cover. Blu-Tack holds the motor in fine!

2) The articulation is also greatly increased if you take the shocks off all together. This is because the corner which is going 'up' is able to go axel - chassis, without the added limiter of the shock, even when closed.
The downside is that the ride height is lower - I've not yet tested this, so will have to see if it's worth it.

jimbob · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2007, 05:47:36 PM »

only two more days

what motors do they take? - may order some

Sammy · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2007, 05:49:54 PM »

For steering or Drive?

Sam

jimbob · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2007, 05:51:10 PM »

drive - think i will put in a servo

Sammy · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2007, 06:01:23 PM »

Dunno then - the steering one is like around 280 size - haven't ventured into the gearboxes yet - sorry.
Ask LP

Sam

Stumungous · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2007, 07:21:27 PM »

Right opened her up and.........

The switch on axle/gearbox cases connects to a device inside on the driveshaft itself which picks high or low gear. Looking on RCcrawler most have JB welded it into low, I'm thinking of doing the same. By rights this'll also stop the clicking/skipping you get when the truck is put up against higher angle climbs.

Also reversed the tyres seems to give a bit more grip but nothing revolutionary...

BTW: Nice work on the steering LP

anything has to be better than the stock motor... powerful steering my butt.

Pug205 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2007, 07:58:48 PM »

Quote from: Stumungous on January 02, 2007, 07:21:27 PM

Right opened her up and.........

The switch on axle/gearbox cases connects to a device inside on the driveshaft itself which picks high or low gear. Looking on RCcrawler most have JB welded it into low, I'm thinking of doing the same. By rights this'll also stop the clicking/skipping you get when the truck is put up against higher angle climbs.

have you got a link to that mate?

Stumungous · « **Reply #15 on:** January 02, 2007, 08:03:21 PM »

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16514

Pug205 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2007, 08:20:07 PM »

Quote from: Stumungous on January 02, 2007, 08:03:21 PM

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16514

thanks

Laughing Potato · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2007, 09:27:27 PM »

You don't need to weld up the high/low gear, just remove the switch and use black leccy tape over the hole. Thats all I've done with mine, so I can change the gear ratio at a later date should I want to. The switches are so stiff anyway, so its not going to move anywhere.

Remember, americans often like to swat a fly with a shotgun

Laughing Potato · « **Reply #18 on:** January 02, 2007, 09:49:31 PM »

ESC installation and a few other bits

I wanted to do this part in more detail than I have, but I didn't have the time I wanted this moring and concentrated on getting the model working. I still need to tidy the work up a bit, so will take some more shots then. You can see on the video normal radio gear makes a big difference to the control of the Nylint.

The motor wires are coloured reb and white, you will need to reverse one of the motors so wire up a red with a white. The wires on the Nylint are very small, and you may get better performance from the motors if the wires were changed to a slightly thicker gauge. I've used the micro receiver from my RC18 as it is obviously nice and small. I've pretty much chucked every thing in the tub for now as I was testing things. You will need to file out the circuit board mounts to get all the gear in the tub.

Whilst the truck was apart I though I'd push the front axle forwards to create a longer wheel base. I've moved it about 1.5cm using a bit of wooden dowel to replace the blue plastic part. This is held in place by some strips of rubber and screwed at the end where it meets the blue cross bar (may have a posh name, but I don't know one). I also had to move the front shocks to the sides of the tub chassis so they would still fit. Travel and articulation have both improved, although the steering servi does catch the shell when its on. I will therefore need to lift the shell about 1cm.

As I first stated, I'm still using parts must of us have lying around or can get with ease. This is a cheap Jeep, and I aim to keep it that way

I also cut a few rings from the springs so it settles better from bumps.

I'm going to work on the shell next, but is will mainly be changing the colour. I want this to remain a Jeep, so it won't be butchered up. I like my crawlers to look road going as mich as possible. I will be adding LED lights, that is simpe on this shell.

I love this shot

You can see the servo catching the underside of the shell in it though, that is my next fix.

I'm really enjoying this little Jeep, its pretty simple to work on, fun to drive and pretty darn capable

Ghost · « **Reply #19 on:** January 02, 2007, 09:59:51 PM »

i envy your work, so all you have to do it rewire it, i thought it would be ahrder than that cheers lp

Sammy · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2007, 08:08:13 AM »

Quote from: Laughing Potato on January 02, 2007, 09:27:27 PM

The switches are so stiff anyway, so its not going to move anywhere.

In actual fact LP, the switches are very soft. The bit that makes them hard is the plastic cover, as there are two notches in the rim, and two in the actual switch. Without the cover/slider, it's very soft.
Cheers,

Sam

EDIT: Nice work on the ESC, LP. Mine's going to be treated to some of the gear from my B3 I think... it'll be the highest spec'd Nylint around

Main reason is the ESC's waterproof (MTroniks RV Max) and all nearly new..
LP: Are you still using the stock battery compartment? I may chuck my leccies in there and re-jig the battery arrangement so the battery's in the tub, although this will increase COG.. My other plan is to try to mount the batteries on the axles (3+3)
I'll go to Maplin at some point today and grab the bits I'll need, and sit down for a nice bit of soldering

Will update progress later,

Sam

Laughing Potato · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2007, 08:35:09 AM »

Ah, so the gears slide easily $:-\$ I've still not suffered from them slipping into hi-gear so its safe not to weld it IMO.

I am still using the stock battery compartment, and will continue to. My aim is to keep it looking like a Jeep, and just push its capabilitys as far as I can. I have a couple more of these, so may go more extreme on those.

I like your idea spliting the batteries 3x3 on each axle, that will get the weight to the right places. I want to get some lead weights in the tyres to help low the COG.

Sammy · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2007, 05:22:58 PM »

Right,
Got 2 more today, so I have three now

Also been to Maplins and got 2 x 3AA holders, and will try to wire that up later.
Having a bit of trouble getting the servo mounted due to not having a 27meg AM TX to center the servo with...

But, got some plastic from school and am progressing 'OK'
Cheers,

Sam

Sammy · « **Reply #23 on:** January 03, 2007, 07:52:35 PM »

My Servo mod's coming on well.
It's actually in the truck, securely, and I've rigged up the linkages.
It all needs fine-tuning but it's dificult without a transmitter to center servos

I've gone for a different approach to others, what do you think?

Sam

Ghost · « **Reply #24 on:** January 03, 2007, 08:31:39 PM »

if it works great, but it doesnt look as good as l;p still i coulnt do much better $:-\$

but hey there another way you could do it

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Author Topic: Official Nylint modifying thread (Read 11086 times)